While trying to find a starting problemI also installed a Jacobs Mileage Master. The Mileage Master was supposed to give me quicker starts, higher fuel economy, and more power. Quicker starts? Higher fuel economy? More power? Untimely failure which masked my CPS fix and caused me to waste lots more time and money? Yes, yes, yes!
At the initial stages of debugging what eventually turned out to be the CPS problem, I carefully switched between the original ignition and the Jacobs ignition schemes. Whenever the car wouldn't start, it wouldn't start with either system; likewise, if the car started, it started with either system. Eventually, I convinced myself that the Jacobs system was reliable and was not contributing to the problem. I left the Mileage Master hooked up while I continued to track the starting problem.
Perhaps the Jacobs system has a mind-reading function that detects when you've dropped your guard? After soldering the old CPS this step actually fixed the problemthen replacing the CPS altogether what a pain and soldering it in place One of my more cautious friends suggested bypassing the Jacobs stuff.
He would not be so easily swayed. So we connected the original coil straight to the distributor cap, and I got the whole package.
Over the period of a week, I worked closely with Jacobs tech support trying to find out where the problem was.
They wanted to send me a new unit right away. In hind-sight, this tells me that their units fail frequently, in which case I would have another failure-prone system with me on the trail.
I wanted to debug the system to make sure the problem wasn't with my XJ or my installation. So, we tried everything from checking the hard-to-see debug LED lights on the unit to replacing the battery. Finally, it became clear that the Mileage Master was defective.
Here's where the real trouble starts. They would take the system back, but I would be charged a "re-stocking" fee. After busting my butt to confirm that their system was broken, I have three problems:. One: Try as I might, I could not convince the tech support person that you can't charge a re-stocking fee for a part that's broken. The hilarious part of this ping-pong match was his insistence that I had been told about the fee.
I bought it over the internet. Tell me where on your web site this policy is listed. It's written in all our magazine ads. Two: My old cap, rotor and wires were fine. Unfortunately, some of the old wires broke removing them to make room for the excellent, but too expensive Jacobs wires.As far as the problem of running after you turn off the key, you can call Jacobs and tell them you need a diode for the alternator wire and they should be able to provide you one or you can go to radio shack and buy one rated at 12 volts or more and at least one amp.
Install it in the wire that energizes the alternator with the marked end towards the alternator if that does not solve the runon problem turn the diode around.
I think that is the brown wire. I have one on my CJ 7 with the stock 6 cylinder. I also had one in my J with a Chevy that had the run on problem without a computer. I took it out because I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. I only used the Jacobs for one day in my truck. I really like the one in my CJ but the one I bought for the truck is sitting in the box now.
If you have trouble getting this to work out right email me back. My own '84 Jeep J10 and not CJ has red and white wires on the side plug of the alternator and the diode goes into the white which you probably think of as brown unless that's really the red one If the feedback circuit red wire isn't reading battery voltage all the time the key is on, the alt will try to push the max power out it can, which will slow the motor down 10HP to 25HP depending on the alt's output Jim Blair.See all 2 photos.
We like automated and electronic gizmos on a four-by about as much as we like having the rear pinion-gear break halfway through the trail. Yet, the Jacobs Omni series of computerized ignitions is something we rarely hit the trail without, and that's completely by choice.
On one hand, we dislike the wizardry in the Omni ignition because we don't know what makes it tick, and couldn't fix it if it died. On the other hand, the Omni Torquer and Omni Magnum work so darn well we don't want to run without one. In fact, our most decrepit 4x4 won't. Not for long, anyway. That motor will still start and run OK on the stock ignition system, but only for an hour or so.
We used to have to clean the number-four plug every two hours before that vehicle was Omnified, but now the potent Jacobs spark overcomes the crap in that combustion chamber and the plug works for several years between cleanings.
Technically, the Omni ignitions provide superior spark thanks to a microprocessor that tailors the output from the built-in matched coil to the demand for that particular cylinder-at each and every firing pulse, no less, using the spark plugs themselves for sensing the need.
On the newer versions, the circuitry is even visible through the clear material at one end of the Omni. In reality, these blue "black boxes" just flat work, and we don't really care how or why. Should the Omni fail, going back to stock ignition is only a matter of pulling the fuse for the Omni and replacing the stock coil-to-distributor wire, which is why we don't mind this hocus-pocus ignition as a trail companion.
Besides, it hasn't failed us yet. Installation is as simple as bolting the 4x5x4-inch ignition module onto the vehicle, yanking the stock coil wire, connecting a sensor wire to the original coil, putting the new Jacobs coil wire between the Omni and the distributor, and then hooking a positive and a negative wire to the battery. Short of just opening the hood and tossing the Omni inside, installation couldn't be easier.
For those who fear electronics on the trail even more than we do, just trust us: The Omni ignitions really do work, are extremely easy to install, and even easier to bypass. Also, on the newer style's see-through end cover there's an LED that blinks with each ignition pulse.
Since it's either fuel or spark that's mis-sing when your engine won't run, the Omni's LED is a very simple way to determine which one is acting up. Close Ad. Forums Photos Videos Industry Videos. Jimmy Nylund Photographer, Writer. Share on Facebook Share on Twitter.The Pro Street Ultra Team is best suited for Vortec applications, street performance and heavy-duty applications.
It is guaranteed to deliver a dramatic improvement in horsepower and driveability torque. All components are factory coordinated for quick, easy installation. Ideal for around town, highway, car, pickup, RV, general and fleet transportation. The DIS system is fully weather, vibration, and heat-resistant. A six-foot connection harness allows for mounting in numerous locations depending on the vehicle. No cutting or splicing of the vehicle's harness is required.
Legal for installation on pollution controlled vehicles. The FC is the perfect place to start a performance buildup for almost any vehicle. It combines power, precision, control and durability in one extremely versatile package. Import or domestic, forced induction, nitrous or stock the FC delivers the best performance and value for almost any application.
The C-4 coil allows for greater spark outputs than conventional coils due to its unique Variable Magnetic Core. Only the C-4 offers the flexibility to operate vehicles from stock to full race with just one coil! The coil's "smart" core actually reacts under load and compensates with a hotter spark!
This smooth, rock steady voltage unleashes your audio amplifier or radio transmitter's full potential. All noisy voltage from the vehicle's electrical system is actively stepped up and filtered at 60, corrections per second.
The resulting sound improvement is awesome!
Nitrous Mastermind always delivers full engine protection from nitrous damage. With more consistent and lower ETs, Nitrous Mastermind fits all nitrous systems, and safely allows use of bigger nitrous systems for more safe, usable horsepower. Attractive high-tech design, Judged by Car Craft as "One of the best new products. Nitrous detonation: Switches in a retard timing curve only when nitrous is flowing.
Over-revving: Stops flow of nitrous 50 rpm before limiting the spark, preventing exhaust system damage. SinceJacobs Electronics has led the aftermarket ignition industry with the most innovative and technologically advanced line of products on the market.
Christopher Jacobs, inventor of the line, holds 23 worldwide patents in electronics, including some on cardiac pacemakers. His technical expertise, backed by a Ph. The result of Dr. For the smoothest, quietest street performance and the most significant improvement in mileage, we recommend the Mileage Master Ultra Team. Designed initially for Ford Explorer, F and Expedition, Jacobs Electronics DIS Ignition System offers substantial performance and mileage increase for later model vehicles that no longer use distributors.
An analog, multi-spark, high performance capacitive discharge ignition concept designed for the real world. C-4 COIL. The biggest breakthrough in nitrous systems in 25 years.The Jacobs Energy Pak is a digitally controlled, capacitive discharge, electronic ignition system for street or race use.
It features a user-definable top end rev limiter.
Under conditions of high demand, a full throttle mode and acceleration mode ramp up spark output. The Energy Pak is fully encapsulated to resist moisture and vibration and is suitable for high performance and off-highway applications. An array of optional wiring harnesses specific to particular vehicles can be ordered separately and utilized for plug-and-play installation.
The basic installation kit supplied with the Energy pak provides a standard connection for most models. Connect the smaller gauge red wire to one terminal of the supplied terminal block. Wire its corresponding terminal to the ignition switch at the positive terminal on the switch where the OEM factory ignition coil wire was previously connected. Connect the green wire to the other terminal of the supplied terminal strip.
Wire its corresponding terminal to the ignition module at the negative terminal where the OEM factory ignition coil wire previously connected to the module. Connect the smaller gauge black wire to the negative terminal of a CD compatible ignition coil. Connect the white wire to the positive terminal of a CD compatible ignition coil. Tape off the ends of the orange and purple wires not used in basic connection. Connect the brown wire to an optional aftermarket tachometer.
If one is not used, tape off the end of the wire to prevent grounding.
Jacobs Electronics Omni Electronic Ignitions - Neat Stuff
Adjust the rev limiter by turning the rotary switches on the Energy Pak unit base plate to the proper setting using a small flat-head screwdriver. The rev limiter is shipped in the off position both rotary switches turned to 0. The left rotary switch closest to the large wire hole represents RPMs. The right switch next to the smaller wire hole represent RPMS. Set the switch to 7 and the switch to 5 for an example rev limit of RPM. Cut one or both of the black and white tracer wire loops located on the end plate of the Energy Pak to configure the rev limiter for use on either four- or six-cylinder engines.
For four-cylinder operation, cut both loops in half. Cut either loop in half for six-cylinder operation. For eight-cylinder engines, leave both loops intact. Tape off the ends of any cut tracer wire loops to prevent them from shorting with each other or grounding.
This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 2 Connect the smaller gauge red wire to one terminal of the supplied terminal block.
Step 3 Connect the green wire to the other terminal of the supplied terminal strip.
How to Hook Up a Tachometer to an MSD Ignition
Step 4 Connect the smaller gauge black wire to the negative terminal of a CD compatible ignition coil.High Performance Ignition Packs. Australian Retail Prices. Back to Products Page. Jacobs' computer controlled ignitions modify spark output in response to changing environment and running conditions. US Patent 3, By tailoring spark voltage, duration and phase angle for each cylinder on every power stroke, all Jacobs Electronics' computer-controlled ignition systems are guaranteed to improve performance, gas mileage, engine life and lengthen intervals between tune-ups.
Produces the absolute maximum in power, low and high end torque, mileage and engine life. The Pro Street Energy Pak uses variable spark technology to provide the correct amount of spark for all engine conditions including accelerating, decelerating, cruising and idling.
RPM to 8, Use for street and race applications whenever maximum performance and MPG is needed. RPM to 7, Particularly suitable for utility and 4WD, large or heavy vehicles and any applications where economy is a concern.
In response to demand for performance products just for imports, Jacobs Electronics has developed the i. Exclusive features are: "start retard".Whether you have a factory, OEM tachometer or an aftermarket gauge, proper installation with the electric spark system is crucial to getting an accurate reading.
Most tachometers are designed to plug directly into the coil or HEI port on most distributors. This OEM-centric paradigm is of little help to numerous hot rodders who have installed an aftermarket MSD ignition control system into their vehicles.
Fortunately, most tachometers are capable of plugging directly into the MSD ignition control box with little trouble.
Strip the end of the trigger wire for the tachometer, and place a female-to-female connector to it. Run enough wire to reach the MSD ignition control box mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment.
Cut the wire from the spool, and strip the end of it with wire strippers. Attach a male connector to the end of the tach trigger wire. Slide the male connector to the port on the side of the MSD ignition control box. Attach the ground wire for the tachometer to a suitable ground plane on your vehicle. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Strip the end of the trigger wire for the tachometer, and place a female-to-female connector to it. Step 2 Run enough wire to reach the MSD ignition control box mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. Step 3 Attach a male connector to the end of the tach trigger wire. Tip Be aware that some tachometers -- both factory and aftermarket -- may require the installation of a tach adapter to the MSD ignition control box to make the tachometer function properly.
Items you will need Wire strippers gauge automotive wire Male and female connectors Volt test light. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.